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Camino Primitivo 2009:

The trip (voyage) from Fredericia to Oviedo 6th and 7th of April.
Back to the start  on the 7th from Hamburg. We started out from Fredericia approx. 20 pm the night before by train. Arrived at the airport in Hamburg about 1.30 am. And waited for the check in a little after 4 am. Take off at 6 am via Palma de Mallorca 8.30 and take off for Oviedo an hour later – we arrived at 11.10 right on schedule. Then we had to wait for the bus to Oviedo where we finally arrived approx. 12.40 pm.

Then we had to wait for the albuerge to open not at 5 pm as announced but 7 pm. So we spent the time shopping a bit. We went to the local market hall where we bought wonderful cheese and had a proper meal in the waiting time.

Finally the albuerge opened and we could get to bed at 8 pm – we slept 12 hours till 8 am the next morning. Except for a couple of short naps on the airplane we had not slept for 24 hours! And what a waiting time!

Wednesday the 8th From Oviedo to Escamplero approx. 16 km.  
We had decided to have a rather short stretch the first day. Wise decision. There were many ups and downs all the time and a lot of asphalt. Had a well deserved beer at the local inn where we also had our supper.  It was a day with a lot of heights for our legs and also a beautiful day to start the journey. We were fine off indeed. We were at the old churches at Alto Naranco too.

The 9 th. Escamplero to Cornellana
We started out from Escamplero without any breakfast – a true peregrine never turns back unless it is absolutely imperative. We had our survival kit ready: dried figs, biscuits and bananas – it was ok. In a bar around 11 am, in a little hamlet Penaflor we tried to persuade the very old and very deaf bartender to give us a breakfast but in vain but we managed to get café con leche and we pushed forward to Grado where we had a fine pit stop with tortillas before we went on up and down towards Villapanada.

None of the guide books tell how breathtakingly beautiful this part of Asturia really is. Absolutely charming. Houses, hamlets, small towns but most of all a fantastic nature with wild orchids and primulas. We stayed at the monastry in Corellana for the night. A beautiful place with renovated buildings for peregrinoes. Until now we had had the most wonderful weather we could wish for. But we could see a change was on way.

At the monastry we met Luigi again. We met him first time at the albuerge in Oviedo.

It was Sunday so I bought beer at the petrol station and wine, Ribeira del Duero, at the bar while Henrik did the laundry.

 The 10th.  Cornellana to Bodenaya.
After breakfast in Cornellana – on the route of course – we continued towards Salas – even terrain but it started to rain before entering Salas and it was rather cold. W visted the fine hotel in town for coffee partly a part of the fortress and visited the very small museum. We met Luigi again and had lunch with him – tortillas before we started the climb to Bodenya in heavy rain. A very beautiful valley upstream – but we had to pause and take shelter because of hail, sleet and bitterly cold rain. We continued upwards to a long stretch where a new motorway was under construction completely ruining the landscape. The sand a gravel filled the streams which were completely brown taking much material down (poor fish). When we reached the top it even snowed a little! And  we continued to Bodenaya. The albuerge is run by Alex who originally comes from Madrid but has found his place here reconstructing an old stone house into a private albuerge. It was bitterly cold when we arrived but we had a hot bath and put on dry clothes. First later the hostellero Anselmo lit a fire which seemed to be the only heating facility. But he washed and dried our laundry – sheer luxury! Alex and Anselmo also prepared a simple, inexpensive meal for the peregrinoes who apart from us consisted of Luigi and Alfredo, a young man of 37 perhaps from Barcelona, whom we met first time in Cornellana. Later a young married couple from Madrid joined the company. They had gone over 30 km in bad weather and with heavy backpacks so the woman seemed stiff and with sore legs.

After supper storytelling started and it was obvious that Anselmo had met the Arch Angel himself in own person several times. And the young couple could tell about a special place in Navarra with an octogal typanon with extraordinary energy among other things. Of course we didn’t understand all but it was great fun to try and watch their bodylanguage.

April the 12 th From Tineo to Campiello

April the 13th From Campiello to Berducedo via Los Hospitales – approx. 30 km
On the advice of Luigi our Italian co-peregrino we decided to stay in Campiello since the Albuerge in Borres didn’t seem fit to stay in.

The wonderful hostress Herminia checked the weather report and allowed us to walk the difficult, remote and wild route over Los Hospitales. It turned out to last for about eight and a half hours! But what a reward! The ascend was difficult but ok. As we came nearer to Los Hospitales at the summit in the height of 1200 m we came into this mysterious remote and wild landscape where we encountered wild horses and a few cows. We even passed the corpse (bones) of a horse which didn’t survive the harsh winters of this area. The bones were scattered so it was obvious that the dead horse had been a feast for predators – foxes, maybe wolves or bears, eagles and the like. And we were very lucky with the weather. It was a cloudy day with strong wind at the heights but it only rained a bit the last hour of descend down to Berducedo.  On the route we only had 3 dried figs, a little chocolade and a few oranges apart from juice and water.

There was no place fit for resting because of the wind and we wanted to get down to civilization again as soon as possible. And yes, we touched snow – a little lay back and we could see that on the highest part most of the snow had just melted a few days ago.

Luckily this is the highest part of the Camino Primitivo. We could see new snow on the higher summits around us especially to the south where some of the Cantabrian mountains shine high.

 
April the 11. Bodenaya to Tineo
April the 14th. From Berducedo to Grandas de Salime
At long last we managed to get access to the internet here in Grandas de Salime. We arrived here w when the church bell sounded 4 pm and the first clouds with rain appeared in the horizon. We started out from Berducedo around 9 am so we have been on the Camino for 7 hours today – approx. 26 km (we took the wrong way because of a mistaken guide which added 4-5 km to the route). A hard route today too – both of us can now feel the strain on our feet and legs and tomorrow another hard climb and descend awaits us passing the Alto de Acebo in 1000-1100 meters. Wiser form the experience last year we take care to shift socks and make “repairs” on our feet immediately and our bandage bag is still well equipped. These three days should  be the hardest this year.

April the 15th. From Grandas to Padron (a couple of km from Fonsagrada).
This has been a very tough day. The day started with the climb first over Monte Zarro and then over the Alto the Acebo (both over 1000 m) in rain from the morning. It cleared a bit later with showers and the inn between Fonfria and Paradanova about 3 pm seemed to be a good place to have a proper meal. And it was indeed – good salad and a meat course and of course tarte de Santiago for dessert. We pushed on with another climb up to Fonsagrada (the holy spring) where we bought provisions since there was nothing to get at the albergue in Padron a couple of kms from Fonsagrada. And we did not want to go back because heavy rain had started again.
At the albergue  we met the Spanyard  Adriano who seemed a bit strange to begin with but who “melted” because we tried to communicate with him in Spanish and “gesticulation”: We also offered him some of our tinto, bread ad cheese – it might have helped too.

April the 16th. From Padron to Cadavo.
This was another wet day at office. Again a climb to the Hospital de Montuto – a very beautiful place – but cold, rainy and windy this day. No breakfast until we reached Paradavella around 12. then another descend and climb to Alto de Caraballin. We reached Cadavo in late afternoon at a very splendid albergue. The only person ther was Seppo from Finland who hardly had spoken to anyone since he started his Camino Primitivo. So Scandinavian company was welcome – in English of course, Adriano who came in a little later felt a little outside now – that was clear.
After eating a bit and having a beer we had a fine dinner at the restaurant 50 meters from the albergue – which seemed a good idea since it still was raining and cold too. Luckily there was floor heating at the albergue – warm and cozy. Another long day with over 8 hours of walking – but ok mainly because of Seppo who turned out to be my age and it was clear we had much in common.
 
April the 17th From Cadavo to Lugo.
Again a rainy day on which we should  have followed Seppo who took the Camino While we followed Adriano’s advice to follow the road. Again I must experience tha it is much better for my feet to go on paths and tracks. My feet do not like the hard surface of asphalt. And to say the least one’s life is literally in danger on the roads. Some of the Spaniards drive like mad and with no concern for walkers. After another hard day we pulled into Lugo – a long way we had to walk on the main road – very bad. I think we walked more than 35 km this day. The weather pattern of the last many days was rainy and cold mornings. A little clearing around midday. Then building up of heavy showers in the afternoon. And rain again evening and night. In Castroverde on the route around midday we surrendered and bought umbrellas which took us relatively safe and dry through heavy thunder rain with hail in the afternoon. It was two very tired peregrinoes who reached Lugo – I never think I have been so tired before in my life!!
Six days of stages of about 30 km (plus – minus) and 8 to more than10 hours had taken their toll

April the 18th . From Lugo to Saint Roman
When we pulled out from Lugo it rained a bit and it was still cold weather.
Via a couple of divertions we found the right small road to Sainr Roman. Practically the whole day we had to follow small roads – we both prefer the camino tracks and paths. It cleared a bit and we had a little sun – but again thunder showers built up in the afternoon.
 When we finally reached Saint Poman it rained agan. It was very clear what kind of countryside we had gone through, Many of the buildings were abandoned and we saw only middle aged and old people. Only two sole children who propably were taken care of by their grandparents. The young had moved to towns and cities whwe we see a lot of new apartment blocks being built to take the migration form the countryside and villages to city.
 At a bar about 1 km from the albergue Seppo, our friend from Finland came out and gave us the keys for the albergue.It had become rather late so we hurried to wash ourselves and our clothes and joined Seppo to have what became a wnderful saturday evening in the crowd of locals who came to the bar to have a drink and exchange the latest news. It was a very small place so we could not help being drawn into the company. After a couple of glasses of the tinto I had a long “conversation” with an elderly man about football – and yes, the telly was on and displayed football. It was very funny indeed.

 April the 19th coming later

April the 20th
In Arzua I woke up in the morning and packed then had to put on my boots which at this place had to be outside the dormitory I fund out that the special made inner sole of the boots had been stolen.
And a young Spaniard had had his boots stolen. Someboby must have been desperate and in great need – but to do a thing like this to another peregrino is unthinkable. Maybe it is a sign to the fact that the main “motorway” og the camino, the Camino Frances has become a turist thing and lost some of its original meaning – being sought for by all sorts – also including thieves. So be very careful about your belongins on on this part.

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Camino Frances 2008:

Santiago Compostella by night

Here is a picture of the big Cathedral in Santiago Compostella. Add to this gaelic backpipe music, celtic harp and a lot of nice people. This is quite early evening at 10.30 p.m. and the temperature: well over 20 degrees centigrade …. Uhmmmm….

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Santiago 25th of April 2008
Then we arrived at Santiago after another brilliant day. We had a very good evening together with other peregrinoes and the walk to town was absolutely perfect. The very last hour goes through the outskirts af Santiago and you feel you just continue walking but suddenly you are there – with the sun shining and a clear blue sky and very warm indeed…
We have decided not to join the party with our companions from Derby and Australia – we are not in the mood for having a big feast even though we have enjoyed their company very much. We like to keep it calm and peaceful. In an hour we´ll find a place to eat together with our old friend Mogens from Gl. Rye (DK). We have criss-crossed with him since Portomarin and we think it would be perfect to dine with him.
We found the right rooms in the middle of the old Medieval city – at 15 euro per person – fantastic. Just wait and see the good pictures – life on the street and the sound of the bells of the Cathedral give the perfect mood of the end of our fantastic pilgrimage.
Tomorrow at noon (12 o´clock) the mass is at the Cathedral and soon after at 2 pm. Our bus will take us to the airport and we´ll arrive in Copenhagen at 10-11 pm. I think.
Yours Henrik H

From Arzua to Arco de Pino
Henrik the older is taking a nap after we arrived at Arco. I have just got something which tastes very well and foams when poured in a glass … I think I have tasted it before but I don´t quite remember…..
Again we chose a quiet walk. The weather is lovely – over 20 degrees centigrade – and even above 25 on this fine afternoon, uhmmm!!. We have only got 18 km to Santiago – this is good to know. It is very good to relax and enjoy life without having to walk at the same time. It has been such a fine walk today too – very different from the stages with mountains and high hills. There are still some good hills – bigger than any Danish hill – but no really physical challenges. We enjoy to go slow and clean a bit and pick up garbage left which means to say that we have the surplus energy… we enjoy to watch the small Galician farms and their inhabitants – a very old lady walking with her stick right in the middle of the camino – a woman gathering her sheep – an older couple taking the cows to the meadows….
Sometimes the gardens are just marvelous. The most amazing plants grow in Galicia among other things banana palms, lemon trees, dates, figs and a lot of other beautiful plants.
But you need to look up and around and don´t race on the camino. For the benefit of coming peregrines: the main thing is not to walk long tough stages to impress. Instead use your energy to encourage and support others and let the impressions of the environment come to you!
There are many ways to walk the camino. Yesterday I became the object of an Austrian tourist. I know I sound bad now but so was he. In the middle of the camino he came with his video camera and put it right in my face and asked where I came from and as the well adapted person I am I answered him pretty nicely.
So he got that in his box and his check list.
Later on in Arzua we were some peregrines gathered at the local square – I did not recognize him right away – but after a few drops of ale he took out his camera and started to interview and film some pergrinoes who had started in Roncevalles, Pied de Port and other places. What I mean is that peregrines suddenly have turned into tourist objects. He has bought himself a charter pack with hotel and all the comfort you could wish for and then we end up as his objects … well, I´d better stop here!! But I have been thinking about this several kilometers this morning … I let him off the hook too easily by leaving his company after a few minutes. I think the others gathered there did exactly the same.
Well, Santiago is waiting. I think we will have a good day there today and tomorrow at the mass: Soon after the airport calls. Hope we´ll get a room  – there are a lot of people at the camino right now.
Hope everyone is well. Greetings Henrik H

Lots of birdsong – and a blue sky. (by Henrik K)
After our resting day with only 15 km we have taken antother one today -
And the medicine we bought at a pharmacy in Melide seems to work. Our companions at the albuerge haven´t heard quite as much of our coughing and sneezing this night and our colds seem much better which is nice for ourselves too.
Today we are in the “colony” of Danes with Jonna and Jørgen from Vendsyssel (northwest in Jutland), Lone from Ribe and our oldest Mogens who is a very skilled walker in spite of a new hib!! We´ll eat together at the local peregrine-eating-place. We look forward to another cozy evening in good company.
Sending before the blanco (Rebeiero) gets too hot!
Hugs to everyone Henrik K

From Melide to Arzua
Henrik K is having another nap – he is tired poor “old” man … - or Henrik the First as somebody calls him – my name is Henrik the Second.
Beautiful day, the day started by threatening rainclouds but for the first time since the stage up the Cebreiro we have been able to walk without our Gore Tex AND ponchos (on and off). Even the poncho has been stowed away … this is good. This is a lovely stage and as soon as you get out of Melide the silence is there again and you walk through forests and meadows with mixed vegetation such as fir, oak and eucalyptus. We are approaching the big eucalyptus plantations – there are more and more eucalyptus trees and the scent is very intense. Many birds are singing but today we haven´t heard so many nitingales maybe because we heard so many others. We saw lemon trees with mature fruits as well as small green ones – very beautiful.
In Melide we met another Dane, Anja who had walked all the way from the French side of the boarder taking the Ruta Arragones. Tough girl. We look forward to  a nice relaxing afternoon and evening, maybe we´ll have another pulpa - Tomorrow I think we´ll reach St. Irene – a private albuerge – but maybe the stage will be too short if the good weather continues.

From Palas de Rei to Melide
Again another day when we just sprang out into it instead of creeping!
Think of how good it is for the plants, for the resources of drinking water, not getting overheated, for a soft soil to walk on. Yes, rain is indeed good for a number of reasons…..
Again a stage where you have to remember to look up and enjoy nature even though you tend to be focused on getting into the next warm and cozy building.
There are nitingales singing around us almost everywhere, especially every time we come to meadows and the vegetation around rivers and creeks. This is really beautiful. We have also come to the first woods of eucalyptus trees. They smell wonderful. We walk on the camino close to roads again, but it is ok to enjoy the silent places … the fact is that the silence is overwhelming.
For the benefit of future peregrines we want to inform you that we had a look at the albuerge in San Xulian, where our friend Jens stayed. It is situated 6 km after Palais de Rei and is looks really nice and recommendable at a glance. It could be a good alternative to a totally crowded municipal albuerge after a day of rain.
Our mood is for the smaller and humble albuerges. It is much easier to do networking on the smaller ones. Everybody helps each other and there seems to be more energy. On the larger albuerges you have to be more attentive to find the peregrinoes who need a little support because they are there too.
In the woods just out of Palais de Rei there were clear signs of wild boars which have searched the soil next to the camino.
Our small stage ended in Melide where we have just had an excellent lunch consisting of Pulpa, which is octopus, bread and blanco Nuevo in one of the big pulparies. The Spanyards bursted out singing maybe because they have been depressed by the rainy weather. It was touching and fantastic singing. Just pulpa and a little blanco, newly fermented wine could raise the spirits to amazing heights even though it was just a little after noon and some of them still had 10-15 km to their goal.
Have had the camera out again and have taken new pictures, but unfortunately they couldn´t be uploaded from this pc.
We are getting closer to Santiago and we are full of impressions. We have let all our companions walk further, some might still be in Melide, but the Brits say that there will be a party in Santiago on Friday. -

Portomarin to Palais de Rei
A stage with many different impressions. We slept at albuerge Mirador in Portomarin. From there there is a fantastic view of the dam and the dam lake in Portomarin. Big eagles and storks you could see circling above the lake. For dinner we had our own sausage and cheese in the restaurant. We had noticed that the experienced peregrino, Torsten, did the same. That´s the way to do it. The question is if the place is an albuerge or not. (the charge was one of the highest we had). And there was nothing to feel from the staff – they we used to prergrinoes doing it this way.
After a little while we had company from Regina and Gabi from Wolfsburg. They also stayed at Lafaba but this was the first time we had a real conversation with them. This was a cozy evening and they showed us some superpictures of cascades (waterfalls) down the cliffs between Tricastela and Samos.
In the morning the start from Portomarin was a little tough. The camino goes upwards for nearly two hours, I think. Not real mountains as such but the size of 2 or 3 of the biggest hills in Denmark put together. When we were about half way we stopped for a coffee  at Gonzar, I think, together with Andy and Gavin from Darby and Torsten. We also had Galician soup – more soup than Galicians (too much of the liquid). After 2-3 hours going upwards with changing light and heavy rain you are more damp and wet than usual so we took good time.
During the stretches where you don´t walk along the roads it is very beautiful. There are big areas covered with newly flowering gyvel – very lovely.  Along these stretches it is also very quiet so this is really outstanding. We had to cross much water and mud but this is ok – we have got used to it more or less.
We had a 25+ stage today so it´s a trip which draws your strength. You tend to walk a different way when it´s raining. The focus is more on getting to the end of this day´s journey so you can dry and change. But you have to remember to take breaks, look up and have a glance at nature.
At Palais de Rei we lodged at the municipal albuerge, where the British had arrived before us. Later on we had a joyful evening on one of the nearest local bars – an exellent meal – and suddenly we were acopany of 12 persons having dinner together.
On this bar Henrik K held a lecture of some of the local tintoes 
The common language was naturally enough English – for once. Also even though we were two Norwegians and two Danes. Most of the rest came from Ireland, Australia and England. It´s so cool when we gather together in this kind of multinational groups – then. something really amazing happens. Not partying or drinking (we had only three bottles of red wine for 12 people) but inter human exchange and bonding. This is really fantastic.

Human meetings on the route.
From Henrik K
Now we have arrived to Melide in a combination of drizzling rain and mild weather.
Today we both are marked by our colds which we caught in the snowstorm. So we only walked 15-16 km today.
We have just had pulpa (octopus) here in Melide for lunch. This is a specialty of the town together with an unfiltered fermented grape juice of white wine – this is well suited to raise the spirits to unforeseen hights after “another wet day at office”.
Yesterday in spite of the rain – only showers though – we had another cozy evening together with the next company of interesting people we have accidentally encountered on the route, namely Sue and Gavin (married) and Andy (A and G are brothers). And suddenly the evening turned into a fiesta with about 13 people from England, Ireland, Australia, Norway and DK at the local restaurant. Of course we had to taste the local tintoes of which I chose 3 for our company to taste. The local one which had the name Sacre (sacred) won – I just have to add that there were only 3 bottles for 12 persons – what about that?
After this script I want to take a nap and have a good rest for the last 50 km or so we lack. We are sure we can do it even in Galician rain!
Henrik K

News from the footfront
A little news from the liberation movement of the feet.
I have found out that it is really good to use the arch support (probably because of the “slight” overweight which is visible on the stomach for many men my age) which I have been using much the last couple of years especially when hiking.
Besides lifting the pressure on the forefoot and knees it is excellent for adjusting the pressure on the foot in my boots so tha the blisters and sore places which have been accumulating can be relieved a bit.
Nevertheless I have still problems with my left little toe which have had a tendency to rub against the neighboring toe – I have to find a way of relieve this – otherwise I am afraid it will be sore and cause trouble for the rest of the tour.
I have changed to cotton bandages and micospore again, since it seems that my skin cannot tolerate the sports tape we have been using to avoid wounds and blisters – luckily our first aid kit is weellproportioned still.
Except from this my eczema on both my hands has returned – probably the cause is the kind of Spanish soap we have used which I full of the wrong substances – among others perfume. I use the protection crème I have brought with me the best I can.
It was lovely to walk in dry weather today to Portomarin – the rain first started when we had reached the albuerge Mirador with a spectaculous view over the lake and hills.

A note of our gear.
Our rucksacks and the total weight of the content is just right. We hold a steady speed.
But because of rain, snow and cold weather we have been close to the limit of what we had left of dry clothes to put on when arriving at the goal of the day.
We have found out that you in rain ought not to put on rain trousers over your hiking pants. Because you get wet inside from sweat and condense. Just let the hiking pants get wet – they dry as soon as the rain stops or slows and they repel water almost as well as rain trousers.
To conclude: let the rain trousers stay in the rucksack – this is our experience with the rain.
Thanks to Lea and Lasse for super stockings and thanks to Mike and Rikke, especially for a superfine and small/lightweight  shaving crème which enables shaving even in cold water.

From Sarria to Portomarin (20th of April, 2008)
We had another fine today and a nice evening in Sarria. At the albuerge we invited Daniel from The States on a little bread, sausage and cheese. He had finished college and didn´t want to be labelled and follow convention as is expected over there and elsewhere. He thought it would be interesting to walk the Camino backwards, that is from Santiago to Pied de Port. What a trip! I think we bid him to have good wind on his journey and the evening ended having a cosy night in front of the open fireplace and a little tinto. Henrik played a little guitar – or tried to tune the instrument ……. 

This day was calm and quiet. There was almost no rain though the clouds were full of it all day and it also started pouring down here at 2.30 pm, but at that time we had reached the albuerge Mirador. And guess who welcomed us when we arrived – two other Danes whom we already had heard about before (and they had also heard rumours about us) Torsten from Rødovre and Mogens from Gl. Rye. It is almost a colony of Danes – strangely enough. This is ok – we haven´t been doing the colony-of-Danes-style so far and we probably won´t. Mogens told that he had slept the night before in Barbadello where I met my angels last year. The two Henriks had our breakfast there because today we started out without having any. Mogens told us that the small, round cook – she really understood to prepare a meal on the wood stove – so this information is passed on! Take a note that it is not at the albuerge in Barbadello but at the humble pension where you can eat an excellent meal, stay overnight and get your breakfast (the latter is not obligatory).

We are in a good mood. This day was not wet. We can expect many so called “tourists” on the route after Sarria which proves that there are many ways to walk the camino. We search for the humble places because there are so many people on the route.

From Tricastella to Sarria (19th of April, 2008)
At long last we sit in Sarria. No snowstorm today …. strange … On the other hand rain for the whole of the day.
Photo from the albuerge in Tricastela, Orbio I think was the name.

We have walked 6-7 hours today in silent drizzling rain. You can choose between two routes from Tricastela to Sarria. The one passes through Samos with the biggest Monastry in Europe and the other via a mountain a little less than a thousand meters high. I think I have red that the route is a boring but this is far from true. You can follow the road the whole way but we didn´t choose that one. The camino in and out of, up and down the small villages was very beautiful and quite demanding. You walk on cattle paths part of the way and they are quite swampy – especially on a day like this. But it was very beautiful practically all the route. But Samos was a disappointment – not that we had expected anything – but it was pouring down and the Monastry had chosen to shut until late afternoon when peregrinoes can have a bed overnight. We were wet and the rain continued pouring down so we just had a coffee and then back on the trail again. It is a tough day when you walk 6-7 hours with only one small break.
Totally wet we arrived at Sarria at a nice albuerge privado, Don Alvarro which I also tried to find last year. Just across the street there is the Albuerge Blasones (blisters) which also should be ok. Take a note that the municipal albuerge has a heated floor – which is not a bad thing especially when you take the weather into consideration.

The route today was loaded with nightingales singing in the valleys and larks singing in the heights and moors – very beautiful indeed and a lot of fine creeks all over. When leaving Tricastela you follow a ridge where water was streaming down the slate rocks forming very beautiful small waterfalls all over.

Washing machine and dryer are used today.

Pictures will be uploaded but I practically haven´t had the camera out for 3 days because of the weather.

Sorry we haven´t answered back but we have been busy surviving ….

The next days to come: wet Galician cow paths en masse await our coming. But this will be fine – it was a beautiful day today – and we are now down from the heights so we will not freeze to death …

We are very tired today, though, after a rather tough route today. You shouldn´t think that we only have walked 20-22 km but as said before up and down. If you walk this stretch then choose the path and not the road. The first km you have to follow the road but then there is an arrow showing upwards at your right hand side and if you can walk the path in this weather you always will be able to. But it was a challenge and your footwear must be ok (a comment from Henrik the older: choosing the path instead of the road is considerably longer than 22 km but really worthwhile and rewarding).

We hope to hear some sound from back home. We might not comment on it but we will read it all!!!!

From Fonfria to Tricastela in a snowstorm  (posted on the18th of April, 2008).
All night it has sounded like a freight train just above our heads at the albuerge in Fronfria. It was a storm which lasted all night and probably it is still running in the mountains. When we eventually came out form the albuerge I have hardly ever seen worse conditions. Some of us decided to form a sort of “convoy” down the mountain because the alternative would be too risky. I wasen´t keen on it at all – to say it frankly! Outside there was some snow but first of all a blizzard with windblows like a hurricane!! Sometimes we had to stop to avoid being blown off the road. When we could we chose the path instead of the nearby road because there was a little more shelter from the wind on the path and we also didn´t meet any running snow ploughs  I never think I will forget this. We went carefully down the path which was full of stones and other stuff to stumble on. When we had walked/slid for about 1½ hours we came down to where the snow became sleet and rain. We were soaked and decided not to push forward to Sarria. We had only walked for 10 km but we have lots of time. Guiseppe went on but we walk faster – later – so we will probably see him again …. Well then, we survived … at Tricastela we made tea and hot chocolate and bid the other peregrinoes welcome inside by offering it. They come in, in different condition but they are all very wet and a huge experience richer. Tomorrow it will rain too – but ok trip to Sarria – no snow and no hurricane!

It is good to hear from you either on mail or blog 

Lafaba to Fronfria (posted on April the 18th)
It rained on the roof all night – it was rather like a blessing of the fantastic companionship we made this evening. In the morning you could clearly see that it would be a totally different day speaking of the weather. The day started with thick clouds and rain. To begin with – just coming out from the albuerge I discovered some ”new mountains”. The day before the mountains were red, yellow and green and now they suddenly have turned white …. Of course it had snowed a little further up than we were. We didn´t have to walk for long before we went into the snow which developed to heavy snowfall and storm. We passed Cebreiro (mountain) and we have a nice picture of us in a totally snow covered wood on top of the Cebreiro – it could easily have been taken in Norway or Sweden. We only went to Fronfria because  we were wet and had started to become cold. The albuerge had not put on heat so they don´t get the best thoughts from us – but we met good people again – of course among others some from Lafaba stopped because it was convenient the weather conditions taken into consideration.

Lafaba (posted on April the 18th)
More about this later. Among other things a common meal. Our friend and co-walker Guiseppe made “Babette´s Banquet” for all the 14 peregrinoes. We said our prayers and Henrik sang Bach and the two of us recited verse in German, some of the other peregrinoes in Italian, French, English, …..

Villafranca to Lafaba (posted on April the 18th)
Only a short notice because there is much more important to tell.
Lafaba is strongly recommendable!! – a lovely day with sunshine the whole of the day and 25 degrees centigrade late afternoon. A totally fantastic day which ended with a gorgeous climb to Lafaba a little way up the Cebreiro mountain. We didn´t find the steep climb just outside of Villafranca which we both regret. To find it you have to turn very sharply to the right immediately after crossing the bridge – if you are in doubt ask the local!! The ordinary road is in our opinion dull and tiresome because you walk along the pretty dangerous main road on hard asphalt. Though, peregrinoes who have been on the meseta (plain) say the latter is ok because you also walk along creeks and you can hear running water, nightingales (and cars!) all the time.

Villafranca del Bierzo (posted on April the 15th)
Hey, readers (from Henrik the older)
Today we reached the wine town Villafranca del Bierzo.
We walked rather slow today because of the steep downward climb yesterday and the last and long km on hard surface of either asphalt or concrete which is very tough for our feet. My pads and hells are quite sore but so far no blisters! Hansen (Henrik the younger) has a couple on his toes. The 22-23 km today lasted a little less than 5 hours – to begin with through town and outskirts – again on hard asphalt. It was a lot better when we came to remote villages and along the vineyards – wonderful.

Now we look after ourselves going a trip to the town of Villefranca after washing our oozing clothes and ourselves.

It is important to have dry socks et cetera for tomorrow – the weather forecast predicts rain.

We think we will take the most beautiful and steepest climb tomorrow- it is much better than hard asphalt (and as they say in England: “Nearer my God to Thee.” – this is much better for your soul)

Salve (hail) Henrik K.

Villafranca del Bierzo (posted on April the 15th) by Henrik H
Today – I don´t know neither which day it is nor the date. We have arrived at Villefranca. An easy route of 23 km. Well, not that easy because it became hot after noon. We arrived early at the fantastic albuerge, Fenix which is both old fashioned and historic as well as hippie-like. The walk today was tiresome the first 3 hours because we had to go through Ponferrada and we crossed the town along roads. A little past Cacabelos the path went through the vineyards which was nice. When it is hot like today after noon it is quite a trial but we arrived early and therefore ok. We had to drink a lot on our route!

From Rabanal to Ponferrada (posted on April the 15th) by Henrik H
On Monday we went from Rabanal to Ponferrada. It turned out to be a walk lasting 10 hours. You ought not to but I tempted and we went further from Molinaseca to Ponferrada.

This is certainly a fabulous trip. First you walk up and then it goes down for more than 20 km. You have to be very careful – the scenery is so fantastic to view but the path is dangerous because you can stumble any minute. On our way upwards: mountains covered with snow, larks singing, deep valleys, enormous mountains, not a person in sight but small mountain cabins and huts. On the way downwards you walk into a warmer climate. The proof is that you on this time of the year is surrounded by newly blooming, yellow broom, wild thyme, sage, lavender and rosemary and a lot more beautiful plants – this is unbelievably beautiful. Last year I was here a week before and the flowers were not blooming yet. Savagely wonderful and fantastic scents and fabulous mountain views and valleys and …. and…. and…. You have to see the pictures from this stretch for yourself. This is crazy!  Wau!!

A ten hour walk means that we were quite finished when we arrived in Ponferrada. We had showers washed clothes and then to town to find something edible – it became a pizza (!!!! Which says something about our tiredness) and a wonderful Bierzo (tinto).

Vesper in Rabanal (posted on April the 15th) by Henrik H
Ok let´s have another try. On Sunday we went to a vesper in the Benedictine church situated in the middle of Rabanal. It was a indeed a moving experience with two monks messing and praying in Gregorian style. Tears were flowing from me for 30 minutes. Also there ought to have been a mass but it was cancelled because of the (cold) weather!!! I guess this says something about the conditions up here. We were lucky that we only went to Rabanal and we were there already at 2 pm. Though, we got our share of rain, hail and snow showers. The peregrinoes who came in after us or those who pushed forwards to Foncebadon indeed got the metrological experience of their life. They were totally soaked and bitterly cold. Two German men went further to Foncebadon and up there, there was a real snowstorm!!! The heavily built man who falls a little behind his companion was literally so confused by the fact that they almost couldn´t find Foncebadon due to the snowstorm.
The snow was gone when we got up the next morning, but anyway this says that the weather isn´t a laughing matter. You have to take care of your clothing and the weather conditions.

It was very cold at Rabanal so we needed blankets there as well as in Astorga. From Astorga and especially from Rabanal we wore hats and gloves for two hours in the morning. On Monday the weather on the route to Ponferrada was fine but also cold on climb upwards.

Rabanal (posted on April the 13th) by Henrik H
What a slow internet connection here in Rabanal. Yes, of course we went to Rabanal. Super tour, so beautiful…. To begin with calm and moist and then a little rain then blue sky and superfine weather and then almost storm. We consider looking for a waterfall tomorrow morning a little from the main route and then further on to Foncebadon but maybe we will just go the straight route to Molinaseca and Ponferrada? We´ll have our hot showers soon but the albuerge doesn´t open before 3 pm. All is well. On the whole tour so far we have only have had one wine ….. by the way it is called TINTO …..

Astorga 2008 (posted on April the 12th) by Henrik H
We have arrived to Astorga. Here it is considerably colder than in Bilbao and it is cloudy. Tomorrow we may expect relatively cold weather. Though, the hospitallero tells that the weather will be super fine next week. The weather in Galicia further out the route is also fine.

We are tired but at long last we have reached our point of departure after a journey lasting three days ….!!

We are going to have a look at the town and then get something to eat …. And maybe  a small cup of herbal tea.

From this machine I cannot upload any pictures – though I searched high and low for a usb connection.

We haven´t got a fixed goal for tomorrow. It could be at Rabanal but we´ll take it as it comes.
 
Hope all is well, have a pleasant time at home.

Bilbao (posted on April the 12th) by Henrik H
We arrived well in Bilbao even though the plane from Copenhagen was delayed 50 minutes in Palma and further delay followed. Bilbao is really a big city with a row of pearls in form of the old city and the quarters around the river. The albuerge lies high above the city with a view over a great part of it. The trip from Bilbao cross the Cantabrian mountains is very beautiful indeed but it is a long train trip (almost 6 hours).